A palace near the gas station in Sant Ramon, because it's Catalunya Photo by Jessica Knauss |
It was a cloudy
day, but we were too cheerful to let it bother us. The previous day was only the second
time I’d been in Aragón, and that day was going to be the second time I’d been
in Catalunya. The regions of Spain are a source of constant cultural and linguistic amazement.
The mountain tunnels are decorated with flowers. Photo by Jessica Knauss |
The first droplets of water hit us on our entry into Ripoll, a place with lots of garden centers and a few shops. We went to Restaurant Can Villaura for lunch at a quarter to four, when the crowd was thinning out. I got a menu in Spanish to cope with ordering, but was reading all the Catalan on the walls. We had macarrones with gratinado and roasted chicken and fries. Roasted chicken with delicately seasoned sauce and potatoes fried in olive oil had become Stanley’s favorite dish in 2015 and if it was on offer, we couldn’t let it pass by. As soon as we stepped out of the restaurant, it started pouring insanely cold rain.
We ran under a
pedestrian bridge, and the prospect of waiting for the cloudburst to pass was
unattractive because neither of us had our jackets. Stanley ducked out and ran
to the car to retrieve my jacket for me. It got soaked and he was frozen, but
the gallantry was not lost on me. I used it as an umbrella to get to the car,
where we sat in the blast from the heater for some minutes while it pelted
rain.
The monastery at Ripoll after the rain Photo by Jessica Knauss |
Small section of the main portal at Ripoll Photo by Jessica Knauss |
The cloister at Ripoll Photo by Stanley Coombs |
It was a
two-hour drive to Cadaqués. The map made it look close from Ripoll, but it
wasn’t detailed enough to show all the mountainous switchbacks and curves. I
thought we’d come out of the mountains to get to the coast, but that coast is
rugged and hilly. Cadaqués is all hills, some of them so steep Stanley held
onto me so I wouldn’t slide down.
We didn’t arrive until nightfall, around 9 p.m.
The hotel was basic, but it was almost more comfortable that way. A five-star
luxury experience could’ve been too much in such an ecstatically charming
location. We walked out in the dark and the drizzle to look for dinner. We made
it to the shore, with the waves crashing, restaurants, and a Dalí statue,
then turned around and bought a pizza (they call them cocas) and a crispy almond honey flatbread about as big
as a 33 rpm record at a bakery and ate them with peanut butter crackers back
in the room. The prevailing feeling was that we should stay longer, but alas, I’d
scheduled only one night there.
Cadaqués at night Photo by Stanley Coombs |
Cadaqués in the morning Photo by Jessica Knauss |
Next time: the
romantic frenzy of Salvador Dalí and Gala.
Catch up with the rest of the posts in this series here.
Catch up with the rest of the posts in this series here.
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