Line up here to stand in the sand! Photo by Jessica Knauss |
Just a few people in line. Photo by Jessica Knauss |
“¿Qué tal?”
“¡Bien, muy bien!”
We went through the gate, as important as you please, this time going up the stairs to get into the tendido, the riser benches. Stanley had no interest in standing for five or six hours and I can't blame him. Miguel took us where he knew we would get the best seats. Wow, were they ever.
Still sunny and the place to ourselves, with the beverage station |
The
beverage people were set up at the barrier the bullfighters leap over when
chased. They were getting briefed and psyched up and one of them asked is if this was going to be a private concert. We were the only people in the audience! How
we were doing? he asked. Awesome, really. The anticipation was so sweet, we didn't even need any drinks.
An hour later, they started letting people in. They admitted groups in at
different times, and so in spite of the long queue, the bullring filled slowly. The places next to Stanley and me filled right up because they were so desirable. Over the sound system, they started
playing the first few songs from two albums, one by Carmen and one by Ricardo Marín.
When the arena seemed about half full, Carmen walked through the sand. People
were taking pictures with her and shouting her name from the tendido. “I didn’t know she was that recognizable,” Stanley said.
The next time her album came on, I
said, “That’s her!” When we listened to her album later, Stanley thought it was fantastic, and that it was kind of unfair to have so much talent in one family.
Carmen García with fans. Photo by Jessica Knauss |
Great seats, oh yeah! |
I looked over
the merch and wanted everything, anything to feel as if I could take this happiness with me. Knowing that was impossible, I bought only five items, most
amazingly, a demented lollipop. It’s the graphic from the cover of Todo es ahora. When the album first came
out, many talk show hosts guessed what the artwork was supposed to be, and in an interview with Manolo, Buenafuente
guessed, “It’s a demented lollipop.” Manolo said, “That must be it.” It
struck me as hilarious.
I got back in plenty of time, exhilarated with my booty and with the fact that this thing was happening! No gumption trap, no distance, and no petty thief managed to get in my way.
Demented lollipops!! |
It started with a surrealist film featuring a lot of eggs and some chickens. Mass production and nature contrasted in the scenery. Then the lights go low and the American musicians come out and play a long, almost psychedelic introduction, during which the man himself walks out with no lights on him and stands stock-still until you think you can't stand it anymore, until just the right moment.
"¡Tú me obligaste a sentirme bien en soledad!" Heaven in Valencia. Photo by Jessica Knauss |
The
sound was incredible at our seats. We were all, thousands of people, submerged in this experience, without it hurting our ears. I couldn’t hear
people singing along like you can in the YouTube cell phone videos afterward. I found
myself singing along—it was an obligation!—and cheering and shouting
and all the algarabía de alegría. A wonderful loss of control, a surrender to the moment. Stanley and I got to sit there with no one standing in our way. We took some videos with the
sensation simultaneously that the moment was eternal and that we needed to
record everything because its end was imminent. And that they were the
best videos ever taken at any concert, except for the fact that Manolo likes to go off randomly into the crowd. It’s terribly exciting, but you can’t
follow him with the camera to save your life! Sweet madness. Sometimes I would
watch the moment and just hope the camera was capturing some of it.
With a
lot of premeditation, thinking we would be last in line and up in the top gradas (nosebleed section),
we’d brought binoculars from the States. I might have used them more if it hadn’t been a pain
to take off my glasses and keep track of them while using the binocs. We didn’t strictly need the binoculars, in the end, because we were plenty close. Crazy Manolo was
in good form—where does he get the energy? He threw
the mic stand in the air. Stanley said he was going to get injured doing that
kind of thing. But he’s been doing it for thirty years, so he understands the
physics. Even
some men were shouting “¡guapo!”
Manolo would often talk with the audience, and I think those were my favorite moments. Before “Estoy alegre,” he declared that being happy is the most important thing. There was a fireside chat about people with diseases you can’t see, and lots of current Spanish politics before “Subo escalas, bajo escalas.”
Here you can see the agile person dressed all in black who captured images for the giant screens. |
Manolo would often talk with the audience, and I think those were my favorite moments. Before “Estoy alegre,” he declared that being happy is the most important thing. There was a fireside chat about people with diseases you can’t see, and lots of current Spanish politics before “Subo escalas, bajo escalas.”
“All
the good songs,” Stanley said at one point. And it’s true, song after song
of wonderfulness, no clunkers ever, and what excellent playing, and that voice
never even sounded tired.
Intermission |
Starting the second half with the flamenco version of "En el batir de los mares" complete with acoustic guitars and Juan Carlos García on cajón. Photo by Stanley Coombs |
The second half brought out the Spanish musicians who always tour with Manolo and are recognizable in their own right. It also featured the earlier albums and even a few old gems from before Manolo went solo. People can never get enough of their favorite old songs, it seems, so this was where people really lost it.
My favorite from before the latest album, "Rosa de Alejandría," surprised me because the audience went almost as crazy as I did for it. I had no idea it was one of those crowdpleasers. What a thrill to share my little song!
Before "Somos levedad," Manolo talked about how good it feels to sing, and oh did it ever, to sing the ahaaahaahahh part with thousands of people.
"Prefiero el trapecio" was the pretend end. Manolo introduced the band and said good night, and after a bit of screaming and chanting, he came back out and asked if we want more. “¿Seguuuuurrrrooooooos?” (Are you suuuurre?) We convinced him easily.
I tried to film "Sobre
el oscuro abismo"—which I later found out has a verb conjugation error in it! But it was utter chaos with Manolo all
over the crowd.
By the time they get to "Viernes," everyone was totally nuts, onstage and off. The backup singers took over the vocals for some of the song so Manolo could fly all over the place.
"A San Fernando" was an opportunity for massive improvised solos and general yelling and screaming that was completely different in every concert.
Oh, that there could be such joy in the world.
Taking their bows with a few laughs |
All these people left before we did. |
And
there you have it. I hope this suggests something about what it’s like to
want something for a really long time, and get it, and have it be even better
than you could've dreamed. It was that way when I met Stanley, too. I knew I wanted true love, but had no idea what it looked like until he showed me every minute of every day we were together.
We'd built up this high for the whole trip, and having reached the summit, it didn't come down until I was on the nasty plane rides home. I can see how the feeling might be addictive, and why some people go to every concert they can.
Next time: Sevilla! Three loves in one place! Another unique concert!
Catch up with the rest of the posts in this series here.
We'd built up this high for the whole trip, and having reached the summit, it didn't come down until I was on the nasty plane rides home. I can see how the feeling might be addictive, and why some people go to every concert they can.
Next time: Sevilla! Three loves in one place! Another unique concert!
Catch up with the rest of the posts in this series here.
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